February 5, 2018
The Concerned Truckdriver
We were 45 miles into a long travel day. The shoulder of the road had disappeared a while back and the trucks got bigger as the road seemed to narrow. Funny the way the constant hills got steeper as we were trying to find the correct road to lead us to our next reservation.
One truck passed way to close for comfort, probably for his comfort as well. He pulled over to the side of the road and waited for us. He reached into the cab and pulled out a crusty lime green dayglo vest and told us we need to wear these and gave it to Bruce. This man was genuinely concerned, not angry. We have since replaced the vest with new ones for us and passed his forward.
We finally found our Cabana at the end of 4 miles of rock and dirt road. It was an older structure on the edge of a peaceful bay next to a bird sanctuary. We arrived with the tide out and it looked like mud flats, By the next morning it was covered in shallow water with white swans that had black necks, seagulls the size of turkeys, crane type of bird and various small ones. The cabin had a much needed wood stove and a goose down bed to cover us.
We then moved forward again, to Ancud on Chiloe the large island at the top of Patagonia. From there we went to see the penguins. The babies are now 3 month old and out on the water with their parents. Some of the parents are molting and those who have finished are shinny and clean in their new tuxedos.
The town was having a Custombrisias, like a small county fair where there were prize animals, local crafts, local beer and wine, and the church and school groups were cooking in boths. These strong German descended mamas were making amazing batches of empanadas and fathers were roasting Cerdo Asado (pig on a stick roasted over wood and hand turned). Everyone seemed to be having a wonderful time. The smells were amazing and the home baked desserts and ice creams tempting. The local band was on the stage and the German songs were sung in Spanish. We had a blast watching the families and especially the interaction between the old people.
Now in Quinchi a small coastal town, a sleepy village with a large salmon farming industry. The bay is beautiful and was very peaceful tonight while we had dinner on the top deck overlooking the beach. This like all beach towns is perched on a cliff, the approach was continually rolling hills and a steep climb, thinking you are going to be into town, and then a few more just like the last climb before you actually get that amazing view of the bay.
Tenaun was the next stop along the coast. This small town was 9,000 people and we stayed in a guest house. We were cold when we walked into the large bright kitchen, lunch was cooking on the wood stove and the greeting was warm and welcoming. We ate with the family for our 3 meals there. It is always interesting to be in a home. The TV in the kitchen was a 50 inch and none in the living room.
We expected Dalecuhue to also be a quiet town…. We were so wrong! This busy summer tourist town was like Cape May New Jersey 25 years ag. A board walk, more trinket and artisan booths than inhabitants. Salmon ceviche made in front of you. The lady was sharpening her knife on the cement curb, she did wipe it off on her apron. From there you could take the ferry to a close small island a bit more rural and we found the small village famous for their oysters.
Castro was next the largest city on Chiloe. From here we took a bus north again for an 11 hour ride to Villarrica in the lake district.
The Volcano looms above the lake always in a light haze. Sometimes you turn a corner and there it is at the end of the street, a constant present. They also have a board walk along the lake shore and a black sand beach.( artificial beach where they brought the sand in) The water is warmer in the lake than the ocean. There were wave with white caps when we arrived from the wind and now it is warm and wonderful. The trees here are so large, the grass green and the sky a silky blue. The evening stays light until 9:30 pm That is when the streets are the most crowded with tourists, families are wandering around until midnight with small children that have napped during the heat of the day.
We have seen many bird, only 1 dead snake and a PuliPuli a small deerish about 30 inches tall that moves like a deer and has a face like a cat. At the ocean on an early morning walk we saw a dolphin playing in the surf.
